An American visits Kunming, Yunnan Province, China

I arrived in Kunming on the afternoon of January 22, 2001 on a clear sunny day.  Kunming's a lot cleaner than Hong Kong!  Bryan met me at the airport and we rode a bus to the Golden Dragon hotel.  A few hours later we found ourselves in a dark, smoky cybercafe.  I sent the following email home:

 

Hey Gang,

1 day in Taipei  one day in hong kong, it was all very interesting but hk is probably a lot like new york.   kunming is a different ballgame though.

sorry about punctuation this keyboard is hideously bad

 im sitting in a dark, smoky cybercafe with sounds of computer games all over the place, it costs 1 dollar per hour and includes tea (self serve)

if hong kong is like NYC then kunming is like omaha.  things dont move quite as fast as hk.

 bryan met me at the airport , i noticed that people stare at americans here.  i guess i'm exotic.

 I should tell them theyre exotic too, EH?

 Bryan secured a luxury hotel room for us - $30 per night.  That's a month's salary for a chinese bus driver.  I was feeling a little guilty about that - i thought maybe we should have gotten a $12 hotel room in the interest of equality - but then i realized that the guys that work at the hotel are happy to get my $30.   so i should feel good, not bad.  assisting the 1.27 billion person chinese economy.  am i a great guy or what?

 we're sitting next to an italian girl that bryan helped find a hotel she could afford.  that was the $12 hotel.  she's a backpacker who can't find a lonelyplanet book.

 OK anyway, all for now.  Hope you guys are handling your new el presidente okay.

 Perry

 

Kunming from our hotel window: a modern city in the mountains with clear air

My diary continues:

As far as I'm concerned, this is where the real adventure starts.  Hong Kong and Taipei are heavily Westernized, in fact in some ways more like the West than the East.  But Kunming is a two hour flight west of Hong Kong, deep in the southern interior of China -- north of Viet Nam and Thailand, east of Bhutan and Burma.

(These are places that people such as myself know nothing about, until they come here.)

I flew over mountains and villages and winding, remote country roads and arrived in Kunming, population maybe 2 million and 6000 feet elevation.  Very clear air and a much slower pace of life.  Bryan picked me up at the airport and we climbed on a bus and went to the Golden Dragon Hotel, a 4 star affair with 108000 Yuan ($15,000US) sculptures for sale in the lobby.

We sat in our hotel room for a couple hours and exercised our cynicism skills as we watched CNN.

Then we went out and bought a Chinese magazine with a music CD and bumped into an Italian backpacker girl who'd been in China for 5 months and was looking for a cheap guest house.  She was hoping to find something for under 20 Yuan ($3) but we couldn't find one.  So we took her to a dark, smoky cybercafe whose acrid air was punctuated with the mirthful sounds of video games and the occasional grunts of internet junkies.

What did we do with her, you may ask.  Well, we just showed her the Lonely Planet website, but turns out you have to buy their China book for guest house details for Kunming.  So we walked her to this other hotel, but she decided to take a bus to Stone Forest, a tourist site 2 hours away.

And that was the end of our rendezvous with the Italian gal from Rome.

So anyway, then it was suppertime.  Bryan took me up this alley with all these street vendors, and we stopped at this place which an American would probably describe as a "mongolian barbeque" operated out of a garage.

The food looked real good -- so we came up with a list of ingredients and they stir fried all the stuff into a meat dish (cured ham with peppers), a noodle dish, and soup.  The pork was awesome and it was a great, tasty meal.  When we left, they drastically over charged Bryan but he didn't feel like arguing with the lady, so he just gave her the six bucks (50 Yuan) and we left.

Bryan and I agreed that once Star-Trek matter transport technology is available, we'll franchise teleports between this little restaurant and some college campus like UC Berkeley and we'll sell cheap eats to starving college students from China.  We'll be rich!  Whadaya think?

Then we went back to our hotel and went to bed.

What happened on 1/23 -- our flight to Lijiang from Kunming, and my first tour of Lijiang Old Town, will come in the next installment!  Let me summarize by saying it was a terrific day, and the interior of China is a MOST fascinating place.

Love,

Perry

Click here to visit Lijiang!